New book traces Estonia’s finger-knit gloves back to the 15th century

A new book on Estonia’s knitted finger gloves traces their history back further than previously thought, with the oldest known example found in Tallinn dating to the 15th century. ERR reports that the findings come from 13 years of research for “Estonian Knitting 4: Finger Gloves”.

Researchers had previously linked gloves found in Estonia to the 19th century. The study also uncovered rare regional techniques and unexpected uses of colour. Anu Pink, one of the book’s authors, said even relatively poor Estonians made beautiful gloves.

Finger gloves were once worn as accessories at weddings and other celebrations, and even in summer, rather than simply to keep hands warm. Patterns indicated the wearer’s skill and home parish. A tradition from Muhu called for a man to wear red gloves and shout while pouring beer he had made.

Today’s experienced knitters had to study and reproduce the historic techniques to understand how the gloves might have been made, said author Kristi Jõeste. The book includes 211 pattern charts, all knitted through by practitioners before publication.

Knitting time varies by style: thicker gloves from southern Estonia can take a couple of dozen hours, while dense gloves from Muhu require at least 40 hours. Knitter Jana Hindrikson said careful stitch distribution across the fingers helps make the gloves comfortable and well-fitting. She and her family wear handmade gloves every day.

Although knitting has a shrinking place in school handicraft lessons, young people returning to their roots and craft enthusiasts abroad are helping keep the tradition alive. The “Estonian Knitting” series now has four volumes, and its authors say their research is continuing.