Veersalu: every cook must earn their place in the kitchen

Every person in a restaurant kitchen must earn their place regardless of their background, Hanna-Greta Veersalu, a member of the Estonian Association of Head Chefs and Culinary Team of Estonia, said on Vikerraadio, ERR reported.

Veersalu was discussing the film Tony, which premiered over the weekend and explores the early working years of world-famous chef Anthony Bourdain in Provincetown, Massachusetts.

“Anthony Bourdain was not a famous chef during his lifetime. He actually became famous as a writer who wrote about the life of a chef,” Veersalu said. “His writing spoke to everyone, and he brought out the darker side of kitchen life that no one else had dared to show.”

She said Bourdain idealised macho culture and was himself something of a macho figure, particularly in his early years. That was a defining feature of kitchen culture at the time, she said, although Bourdain later changed and also spoke about equality and peace in the kitchen.

Veersalu said kitchens at the time could involve people under the influence of drugs, flying pans, fires and even fights during food preparation. Such conflicts can still occur today, she said, because kitchens contain large egos and cooks may sometimes spend up to 20 hours in the same environment without sleep.

“It does not matter at all who you are or what your background is in a kitchen. You may have a doctorate in anything or be a very good senior manager in an office, but in a kitchen you have to earn your place,” Veersalu said.

She added that anyone who cannot work with others, cope with routine or respect different roles will not last long in a kitchen. She said this was also one of Bourdain’s messages.

Veersalu described cooking as an exciting profession because it is constantly developing. It combines art and creativity with a strong system and strict order, she said. She added that she had entered the profession by chance about 10 years ago after starting out in another field.

Bourdain died by suicide at the age of 61. Veersalu said the adrenaline produced by the fast pace of kitchen work was one reason there were many male chefs, comparing the environment to top-level sport. She said the work could both energise and consume people.

Culinary Team of Estonia is the Estonian national chefs’ team, consisting of 10 cooks. Veersalu said the team would travel to Luxembourg in November to represent Estonia at the Culinary World Cup and had already been training for almost two years.